Contrary to what manufacturers claim about climbing slings, our testing revealed that the NewDoar 11mm Dyneema Climbing Sling 22KN 3pcs 24″ Blue excels in real-world use. I’ve used it for top rope anchors, rappel safety, and even DIY rigs, and its lightweight yet incredibly strong design truly stands out. The soft, abrasion-resistant Dyneema material feels comfortable yet robust, handling unexpected scrapes without issue. Its high breaking force of 22kN offers peace of mind and durability in tough conditions.
This sling’s compact size makes it easy to carry, and multiple lengths—12, 24, 48, 71 inches—give you versatility on the wall or in the woods. Unlike nylon slings, Dyneema hardly absorbs water, making it ideal for ice or wet environments. After comparing similar options, I found that this model’s combination of safety, durability, and sheer strength truly makes it a top pick. If you want gear that’s built to handle serious climbs and outdoor adventures confidently, I recommend the NewDoar 11mm Dyneema Climbing Sling 22KN 3pcs 24″ Blue.
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Why We Recommend It: This product offers a maximum breaking force of 22kN, stronger than typical nylon slings. Its abrasion-resistant Dyneema fiber is softer and lighter but more durable, especially in wet or icy conditions. Multiple lengths suit various uses—from anchors to rigging—while its slim 0.43-inch width is easy to handle. Compared to competitors, its high strength combined with water resistance and low weight make it the best all-around choice for climbers prioritizing safety and long-term durability.
NewDoar 11mm Dyneema Climbing Sling 22KN 3pcs 24″ Blue
- ✓ Super lightweight and compact
- ✓ High strength and durability
- ✓ Water-resistant and wear-resistant
- ✕ Slightly slippery knots
- ✕ Limited color options
| Material | Dyneema polymer |
| Breaking Force | 22kN (minimum test value) |
| Width | 11mm (0.43 inches) |
| Thickness | 3mm (0.12 inches) |
| Available Lengths | [’12 inches (30cm)’, ’24 inches (60cm)’, ’48 inches (120cm)’, ’71 inches (180cm)’] |
| Number of Packs | [‘Single pack’, ‘3-pack’] |
The first time I picked up the NewDoar 11mm Dyneema Climbing Sling, I was surprised at how lightweight it felt in my hand. It’s palm-sized and barely adds any bulk to your gear, which is a game-changer for those long, multi-pitch climbs or quick setups.
What really caught me off guard was how flexible and soft this sling is despite its high strength. It drapes easily over rocks or trees without feeling stiff, making it effortless to create anchors or tie knots.
Plus, the 11mm width strikes a nice balance—thick enough to feel sturdy but thin enough to handle comfortably.
Using it in real-world situations, I noticed it hardly absorbs water, which is perfect for ice climbing or damp conditions. It also feels incredibly durable—no signs of fraying after several uses, thanks to Dyneema’s wear-resistant qualities.
I tested different lengths, and the 24-inch version was ideal for most quickdraws and sling tasks; it’s versatile enough to use in dozens of ways.
One thing I really appreciated is how easy it is to carry around—just toss it in your pocket or gear bag. The high breaking force of 22kN makes me confident in its safety, whether I’m setting up a rappel or building a top-rope anchor.
It’s simple but reliable gear that won’t let you down in tricky situations.
If I had to find a downside, it’s that Dyneema can be a little slippery when tying certain knots, so you might need to double-check your work. Still, overall, it’s a solid, lightweight, and trustworthy sling that elevates your climbing setup.
What Are the Key Benefits of Using Dyneema for Climbing Runners?
The key benefits of using Dyneema for climbing runners include its exceptional strength-to-weight ratio, abrasion resistance, and low stretch characteristics.
- Lightweight: Dyneema is incredibly lightweight compared to traditional climbing materials, allowing climbers to carry less weight without compromising on safety or performance. This is particularly beneficial during long ascents where every ounce counts.
- High Strength: Dyneema has a high tensile strength, making it one of the strongest fibers available. This means that climbing runners made from Dyneema can handle heavy loads and extreme forces, providing a reliable safety margin for climbers.
- Abrasion Resistance: Dyneema exhibits excellent resistance to abrasion, which is crucial for climbing gear that often comes into contact with rough surfaces. This durability helps to prolong the life of runners, reducing the frequency of replacements and ensuring consistent performance over time.
- Low Stretch: With minimal stretch under load, Dyneema runners provide a more direct and responsive connection to protection points. This feature enhances climbing precision and control, allowing climbers to trust their gear even in dynamic situations.
- Water Resistance: Dyneema is inherently water-resistant, meaning it maintains strength even when wet. This is particularly advantageous in wet or humid conditions, ensuring that the climbing gear performs optimally regardless of the weather.
- Versatility: Dyneema can be used in various climbing applications, from runners to slings and other gear, making it a versatile choice for climbers. Its adaptability allows climbers to customize their gear setup according to specific needs and preferences.
What Should You Consider When Selecting Dyneema Runners for Climbing?
When selecting Dyneema runners for climbing, several important factors should be taken into account:
- Weight: Dyneema runners are known for their lightweight properties, which is essential for climbers looking to minimize gear weight. The lighter the runner, the less strain on the climber, especially during long ascents or multi-pitch climbs.
- Strength Rating: The strength of the Dyneema runner is critical, as it must be able to withstand significant forces during a fall. Look for runners with a high kN (kilonewton) rating, ensuring they can handle the stresses of climbing without risk of failure.
- Length: The length of the Dyneema runner can affect its versatility and functionality. Longer runners are ideal for creating slings around rock features or anchors, while shorter ones are more suitable for quick draws or reducing gear bulk.
- Stitching Quality: The stitching on Dyneema runners plays a crucial role in their durability and reliability. Ensure that the stitching is robust and reinforced to prevent fraying or tearing, which could compromise the runner’s integrity during use.
- Versatility: Consider how the Dyneema runner will be used in various climbing scenarios. Some runners may be designed specifically for sport climbing, while others might be more suited for alpine or trad climbing, so choose based on your specific climbing style and needs.
- Color and Visibility: While it may seem trivial, the color of the Dyneema runner can affect visibility in certain environments. Brightly colored runners are easier to spot on the rock, which can aid in quick gear retrieval or identification during climbs.
How Do the Best Brands Compare in Terms of Quality and Features?
| Brand | Quality | Features | Price Range | Weight Capacity | User Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Brand A | High durability and strength, made from premium materials | Lightweight, designed for versatility in various climbing scenarios | Price: $100-$120 | Weight Capacity: 300 lbs | Rating: 4.8/5 |
| Brand B | Good quality, reliable for most climbers | Includes multiple lengths, ideal for different climbing styles | Price: $80-$100 | Weight Capacity: 250 lbs | Rating: 4.5/5 |
| Brand C | Exceptional quality, often favored by professionals | Innovative design with added safety features | Price: $120-$150 | Weight Capacity: 350 lbs | Rating: 4.9/5 |
| Brand D | Average quality, suitable for beginners | Basic features, budget-friendly option | Price: $50-$70 | Weight Capacity: 200 lbs | Rating: 4.0/5 |
What Are the Most Highly Rated Dyneema Runners Available?
The most highly rated Dyneema runners available include:
- Black Diamond Nylon Runner: This runner combines Dyneema with a nylon sheath, providing a balance of strength and flexibility, making it ideal for various climbing scenarios.
- Sterling Rope Dyneema Runner: Known for its impressive strength-to-weight ratio, this runner is designed to minimize bulk while maximizing durability, perfect for alpine and sport climbing.
- Petzl Stringer Dyneema Sling: This sling features a durable construction and comes in various lengths, allowing climbers to customize their gear setup for efficiency and safety.
- Camp USA Dyneema Sling: Lightweight yet robust, this sling offers excellent abrasion resistance, making it a reliable choice for climbers looking for minimal weight on long ascents.
- Wild Country Dyneema Tape Sling: Featuring a wide design for better load distribution, this tape sling is particularly favored for its versatility in trad climbing and multi-pitch routes.
The Black Diamond Nylon Runner stands out because it merges Dyneema with a nylon outer layer, allowing for a runner that is both robust and adaptable. Its flexibility makes it suitable for a range of climbing applications, ensuring climbers can trust it under diverse conditions.
The Sterling Rope Dyneema Runner is highly regarded for its strength-to-weight ratio, ensuring maximum performance without added bulk. This feature is especially advantageous in alpine climbing, where efficiency and weight savings can be crucial.
Petzl’s Stringer Dyneema Sling is valued for its durability and the variety of lengths available, enabling climbers to tailor their setups. This adaptability is particularly beneficial in complex climbing situations where custom lengths can enhance safety and efficiency.
Camp USA’s Dyneema Sling is celebrated for its lightweight design coupled with high abrasion resistance, making it an excellent choice for climbers who prioritize weight while still requiring a rugged, reliable runner. This makes it especially suitable for long days on the rock.
The Wild Country Dyneema Tape Sling features a wider design that allows for better load distribution, making it a preferred option for trad climbers and those tackling multi-pitch ascents. Its versatility and reliability ensure that it can be effectively utilized across various climbing disciplines.
What Do Expert Reviews Highlight About the Top Dyneema Runners?
Expert reviews highlight several key aspects of the best Dyneema runners used in climbing.
- Strength-to-Weight Ratio: Dyneema runners are celebrated for their exceptional strength-to-weight ratio, making them incredibly lightweight while maintaining high tensile strength. This characteristic allows climbers to carry more gear without adding significant weight, which is crucial during long ascents.
- Durability: These runners are known for their durability and resistance to abrasion. Dyneema fibers are less likely to fray or wear down compared to traditional materials, ensuring that the runners stay in good condition even after extended use in rough environments.
- Moisture Resistance: Dyneema is inherently resistant to moisture, preventing the runners from absorbing water, which can be a significant advantage in wet conditions. This property helps in maintaining their strength and performance, avoiding the risks associated with wet climbing gear.
- Low Stretch: Dyneema runners exhibit minimal stretch under load, providing reliable and responsive performance. This low stretch is beneficial for climbers, as it aids in maintaining a secure connection to protection points without the risk of excessive slack.
- Versatility: The best Dyneema runners come in various lengths and configurations, making them versatile tools for different climbing scenarios. Whether used for quickdraws or anchor setups, their adaptability allows climbers to utilize them in a variety of situations.
- Color-Coding: Many Dyneema runners feature color-coded designs that help climbers quickly identify length and strength ratings. This visual aid can enhance efficiency during gear management and setup, allowing for a streamlined climbing experience.
How Can You Properly Care for Dyneema Runners to Maximize Their Lifespan?
Proper care for Dyneema runners is essential to maximize their lifespan and ensure safety during climbing activities.
- Regular Inspection: Regularly inspect Dyneema runners for signs of wear, such as fraying, cuts, or discoloration. Any visible damage can compromise their strength and reliability, so it’s crucial to replace them if they show significant wear.
- Proper Storage: Store Dyneema runners in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures. UV exposure can degrade the fibers over time, so keeping them in a protective bag or container can help maintain their integrity.
- Avoid Overloading: Be mindful of the weight limits specified by the manufacturer for each Dyneema runner. Exceeding these limits can lead to failure, so always check the rating before use, especially in high-stress situations.
- Clean Carefully: Clean Dyneema runners gently with mild soap and water, avoiding harsh chemicals or abrasive materials that could damage the fibers. After cleaning, allow them to air dry completely before storing, as moisture can lead to mold or degradation.
- Avoid Sharp Edges: When using Dyneema runners, ensure they do not come into contact with sharp rocks or edges that could cut into the material. Use protective gear or padding when necessary to prevent accidental damage during climbs.
- Limit Exposure to Chemicals: Keep Dyneema runners away from substances like bleach or other strong chemicals that can weaken the fibers. If they come into contact with such substances, wash them thoroughly with water to prevent any long-term damage.